John Galliano : The undisputed God of Couture Fashion

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Introducing John Galliano

The world of fashion has named designers as kings, queens, titans, legends and many more titles. And then there are some designers who are hailed as Gods of Fashion. Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén, popularly called as John Galliano is one of them. Born on November 28^th, 1960 Galliano is one known for his intense creative force with producing some of the most memorable and magical fashion shows of all times. He has one the prestigious British Designer of the Year Award four times in 1987, ’94, ’95 and ’97.

Born in Gibraltar, John Galliano has been creative director of some of the most influential fashion houses in the world. Givenchy, Dior, Maison Margiela, and his own eponymous label. Though his life has been subject to torrential ups and downs, but his creativity has always been held as one of the finest that mankind has achieved. Even though John has donned many hats in his career but at heart he always remained a dressmaker and he once himself said,

“I wanted to be a designer because I wanted to make people dream.”

Rise to Fame: Galliano’s Career Trajectory

John Galliano is an alumnus of the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. He graduated in 1984 with a degree in fashion design and for his graduating collection titled Les Incroyables he was inspired by the French Revolution. The collection was such a stroke of genius that the London’s high-end fashion boutique Browns bought the entire collection for resale.

John’s graduate collection brought him critical acclaim and the attention of his guardian angle, Anna Wintour. Soon after Galliano started his own label with the help of friend Amanda Harlech, who herself was the fashion editor of harper’s Bazaar and Queen. But as fate would have it, He soon went bankrupt because of some wrong decision.

But all was not lost for soon the help came in the form of Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley, who both had eminent positions at Vogue and Vanity Fair respectively and arranged financial security for John’s next collection. The collection that followed, dubbed Princess Lucretia, received rave reviews. The New Yorker reported Diane von Furstenberg called it “a watershed moment in modern fashion history.” And from that moment on John’s creative graph never looked back.

Bernard Arnault, CEO OF fashion conglomerate LVMH, appointed Galliano as the head designer of Givenchy in 1995; the appointment made Galliano the first British designer to head a French haute couture house. In October 1996, LVMH moved Galliano to Christian Dior. John Galliano’s work at the legendary fashion house was called one of the most legendary tenures of any fashion designer.

The bias cut, the Nefertiti couture collection, the saddlebag — under John Galliano’s creative genius, the fashion house of Dior would dominate the fashion world. This was majorly in part because of his extravagant couture shows which were fashion spectacles and John Galliano’s ability to convert these couture pieces into equally marketable, commercial of his creations.

Galliano’s Iconic Designs and Collections

Throughout his career, Galliano became known for his avant-garde designs and theatrical runway presentations.

“Fashion is not about clothes, it’s about a look,” Galliano famously remarked.

Here are some of his most notable collections:

Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1998 “En Diable” Collection:

Inspired by the devil himself, this iconic collection features a very dramatic approach to dressmaking. With bold colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and intricate embroideries. The memorable piece from this collection was a res satin bias-cut dress with exaggerated hips and corseted bodice that was later famously worn by the singer Madonna.

Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2000 “Haute Voltige” Collection:

Inspired by the fantastical world of a French circus, this Dior collection is remembered for its whimsical designs and theatrical elements. The standout piece that still is fresh in fan’s memories is a trapeze-style coat dress adorned with sequins and feathers, capturing the spirit of the French circus.

Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2007 “Diorama” Collection:

Galliano’s Fall/Winter Couture 2007 collection for Dior was inspired by the art of Impressionist painters such as Monet and Renoir. The collection featured romantic dresses with delicate floral prints and intricate draping, reminiscent of the Impressionist aesthetic. The strokes were reinterpreted through delicate embroidery and a variety of dying techniques.

John Galliano Spring/Summer 1995 “Japonisme” Collection:

For his own eponymous label, John’s Spring/Summer 1995 collection titled “Japonisme” drew inspiration from Japanese culture, featuring kimono-style silhouettes, obi belts, and traditional Japanese prints. For the collection Galliano turned a Paris’s Pin-Up Studios with vintage cars, lingerie-strewn clotheslines, and a corrugated metal wall pasted with pornography.

Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2007 “The Galliano Years” Collection:

To mark his 10^th anniversary at the French fashion house of Dior, Johan Galliano paid homage to some of his own most iconic designs from the past ten years he has devoted to this iconic brand. The collection reinterpreted Galliano’s signature bias-cut gown, classic motifs and his flare for intricate embroideries, all in his well-known theatrical presentation style.

Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall/Winter 2015 “Artisanal Sculpture” Collection:

After his departure from Dior and his sabbatical from the fashion world, Galliano re-entered the arena as Maison Margiela’s creative head. For his debut collection, he Margiela featured a blend of deconstructed silhouettes, exaggerated proportions, and sculptural elements. One standout piece from this collection is the “décollage” coat, which appeared to be constructed from layers of torn posters, showcasing Galliano’s knack for mixing art and fashion.

Maison Margiela Artisanal Couture Fall/Winter 2018 Collection:

John Galliano has long been captivated by the mysteries of a masked ball. This served as an inspiration for his Fall/Winter 2018 couture collection for Maison Margiela. Featuring a mix of Victorian- inspired silhouettes, Avant-guard masks and his signature embellishment style, this collection brough his strengths to the foray i.e. his ability to merge historical references with contemporary designing style and elements.

Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2019 “Défilé” Collection:

At Maison Margiela Johan has created a new vocabulary of craftsmanship where he often experiments with new material and style. For this collection he wanted to explore the idea of transparency and transformation and this he achieved by creatively layering sheer fabrics and textures. One notable piece is the transparent trench coat adorned with floral appliqués, which blurred the lines between clothing and art, reflecting Galliano’s experimental vision for fashion.

Maison Margiela Artisanal Spring/Summer 2020 “Co-Ed” Collection:

Galliano’s Spring/Summer 2020 couture collection for Maison Margiela celebrated gender fluidity and inclusivity, featuring a diverse cast of models and gender-neutral designs. The collection showcased innovative techniques such as 3D printing and digital manipulation, pushing the boundaries of traditional couture craftsmanship.

Controversies and Challenges

There was a time when the supremacy of John’s fashion reign was unmatched and unparalleled in history. He was reportedly producing more than 30 shows in a year. But everything that goes up comes down. In 2011, a public video went viral where John was seen drunk and saying anti-Semitic remarks. He had to face immense public backlash and an immediate downfall in his career graph.

His removal from his own brand and Dior, followed by a cry of ban from famous Hollywood celebrities. Galliano later expressed remorse for his actions, stating, “I am an alcoholic. I am an addict.” His actions since then have been towards redeeming his image which has helped him reconnect with his self and his fans again.

Galliano’s Comeback: Reinvention and Resurgence

Following a period of rehabilitation and self-reflection, Galliano embarked on a journey of reinvention. The forgiveness from the fashion industry came in the form of a temporary residency are Oscar De La Renta’s, once again brokered by his guardian angle Anna Wintour.  The move may have offended many, but it was a sign that time has come for this creative genius to come back to the world where he truly belongs.

In 2013, he made a triumphant return to the world of fashion with yet another creative madness of a fashion show as the Creative Director of Maison Margiela, where he continued to push boundaries and defy conventions. As Margiela’s CEO Renzo Rosso very notably praised Galliano and said,

“John Galliano’s creativity knows no bounds”.

Conclusion

There are countless stars in the vast universe of fashion, but none has shown brightly as John Galliano’s. His incredible journey from a small-town boy to the mad king of couture, his fall from grace and his coming back and conquering the hearts of his fans with his creations, is one which parallels some of the most exciting lives ever shown in Hollywood cinema.

John Galliano’s work and creativity, inspires many to dream and to dream wildly. As we pay homage to this designer who is considerably the greatest of his generation, we also remember that humility should always be there in one’s eyes. As John had to learn the hard way. But now as we look to the future and await more of John Galliano’s fashion wonders to wow and sweep us off our feet. Do share with us your favourite John Galliano’s collection or write in the comments below what is your absolute favorite John Galliano creation.